Lemongrass

Vegetable Garden

Herb Garden

Herbs are commonly associated to plants with leaves, seeds or flowers used in cooking to add flavor to dishes, or in medicine, or as fragrances. In botany, the scientific study of plant life, the term “herb” is given to any plant that has a stem which dies every year. Do not worry most are perennials which grow back from its rootstock, while replanting annuals, the one that does not grow back, would be a yearly event and a time to seriously evaluate your garden.

Ancient civilizations had been known to use herbs in medicine. The connections between herbs and health have been established; hence encourage the use of herbs in cooking. Do not be fooled, sometimes claims may have some truths, but mostly it were superstitions, so have some care.

Easiest Herbs to Grow

Starting a kitchen garden with herbs in pots is easy as most herbs require little sunshine, just enough watering to keep alive and little or no fertilizer. In general most herbs like lean condition like well drained or sandy soil. Some people believe the flavor of these herbs is much better or more intense when they are a little bit distress. Beomg a novice gardener is already a source of distress to some plants and so there is no need to recreate it deliberately.

1. Mints and Lemongrass

Mint and lemongrass are two herbs that are easy to grow but depend on the climate zone. Mint may have adapt well in a tropical climate with small adjustment in watering, but lemongrass, a tropical plant, should be avoided in a dry inland zone, as it can be killed by temperature10 and below.

Lemongrass grown in a pot, place indoor and in a bright, south-facing window would adapt and thrive. It has as sweet citrusy hint great for simple teas, hearty soup, meat sauces and dishes.

Mints, whatever the zone, are always aggressively invasive like a weed, so plant them in their own pot to prevent killing other plants. Peppermint flavor is more intense than spearmint, and better planted from a seed than a cutting. While milder-flavored spearmint can be grown from cuttings. Both thrive in partial shade and incredible easy to grow.   

2. Rosemary, Sage, Oregano, and Thyme

Rosemary, sage, oregano and thyme are the most common culinary herbs. All are Mediterranean and perennials plants, most are tolerant to drought but cannot grow in full shade. They can resist strong prevailing wind like in a coastal area but a combination of cold weather would considerably weakens them, hence a sheltered spot from the wind but receive full sunlight is most ideal. These 4 herbs can be planted together in a large pot with a well-drained potting mix. Most culinary chef prefer a certain variety of this herbs like Tuscan Blue Rosemary; Greek and Italian Oregano; English, French and Lemon Thyme; and Common Sage or “Berggarten.”

3. Chives and Parsley

Chive is the cutest indoors herb to grow, not only it looks good in a small pot but also drought tolerant and thrives well in partial shade. If one is planning to have vegetable and/or flower rose garden in the near future, propagate chives as it is a great companion plant to garlic, onion, carrots, eggplants, peppers, tomatoes, potatoes, squash, strawberries, cabbage, broccoli, mustard and roses. It is believed to repel a number of harmful insects like aphids, carrot flies, cabbage worms, beetles and slugs. Another herbs that thrives well in partial shade is parsley, they are great companion plants.

Dill and French tarragon would be great to be planted with chives and parsley as they are all use for sauces, spread, garnish; but bit temperament would recommend it only once garden and gardening skills are better established.

The incentive of growing edibles is not only having healthy fresh source, great flavored dishes but also an effortless physical and mental exercise. The health truth about gardens could be on the activity and the fresh flavor and food is just a great plus. 

The next gardening article would be about vegetable garden as a continuance to kitchen garden. If you have comments, questions, reactions, suggestions and correction please feel free to post down below. And do not forget to follow. Thank you.

As always enjoy gardening!

References

1. Kinkead, E.B., Sehbai, D.S. & Tunney. C.J, (Eds.). (1972) Modern Century Illustrated Encyclopedia.(Vols10).  Austialia: McGraw-Hill far Eastern Publishers.

2. Tapsell, L. C., Hemphill, I., Cobiac, L., Sullivan, D. R., Fenech, M., Patch, C. S., Roodenrys, S., Keogh, J. B., Clifton, P. M., Williams, P. G., Fazio, V. A. & Inge, K. E. (2006). "Health benefits of herbs and spices: The past, the present, the future". Medical Journal of Australia. 185 (4): S1–S24.

3. Food Wishes (2015, June1). How to Plant a Culinary Herb Garden! DIY Kitchen Garden. [Video File]. Retrieved from https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qbYbI-uGEyg&gl=US

4. Entertaining With Beth. (2014, April 18). How to Start an Herb Garden. [Video File]. Retrieved from https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MzXHNlb1bos

5. Faulkner, Z. (n.d.).  The 9 EasiestHerbs to Grow Indoors.  [Blog Post]. Retrieved from http://www.more.com/living/stylish-home/9-easiest-herbs-grow-indoors

Kitchen Garden in Pots

There are a variety of reasons why people are enthusiastic about gardening to discover if one truly enjoys gardening, growing plants, first step is to try something simple like a little kitchen garden in pots.

Start Simple with Pots

Ideally, to start a garden a list of things have been considered, this includes the location, the soil quality  and other basic for maintenance, and most especially what to plant and its layout or placement.  In choosing a site, it is important to consider the sun’s path, the soil quality, direction of prevailing winds, the availability of water source, the local climate and such conditions.

With a simple garden in containers the long list of requirements is ease down to the basics like local conditions. Using pots provide freedom of movement in which one could easily manage the plant placement concerning sun exposure, as most plants needs 6 hours of sun while some grow in shade.  The soil quality could to tweak according to the plant preference. Gardening with pots it is easy to create a microclimate. Protection from prevailing wind would be as easy as just reposition pots from outdoors to indoors. On the quantity, one could start with just one then gradually increase.

Here are some things to consider when gardening with pots:

Types of Pots

Wooden pots keep the soil moist and cool. As terracotta and clay pots are the most beautiful and more natural but are fragile, heavy and expensive. It support good drainage and help in air circulation. On the other hand, plastic pots are light but get hot quickly.

Sizes 

Large pots don’t dry quickly and deep provide optimum growing space. A large pot can hold more plants, less need for additional pots, hence less clutter. Smaller pots are easy to move around and could serve as an ornamental.

Shapes 

Wide-rectangular containers are more ideal in growing lettuce and other salad greens. While, deep pots are perfect for plants like tomatoes and peppers.

Drainage

Ensure pots have proper drainage to save plants from disease like root rot and fungus. Avoid overwatering, water only when the soil is dry.

Grow Edibles: Kitchen Garden

A great garden starter is growing edibles or a kitchen garden since we consume food everyday and it would remind that one has a growing food source that needs some tending. It would prevent neglect and foster a nurturing habit without so much coercion.

A kitchen garden, or potager in French and kailyaird in Scottish, is not only a vegetable plot but a combination of vegetables, herbs, fruits and edible and non-edible flowers in a structured design that is both functional and aesthetically pleasing.

As a beginner, choose edible plants that are easy to grow like herbs, as most are hardy and tolerant. Also consider one’s taste and/or most commonly used herbs and vegetables so nothing will go waste. Another item to consider is what grows best in one’s area or native plants. Choosing unsuitable plants create more work and often dead plants.     

Companion Planting

Consider planting tomato, basil and marigold together, it is an example of companion planting. It helps to keep plants healthy, as marigold repels insects and nematodes that are attracted to tomatoes. The symbiotic relationship is not only limited to repelling pests but also enhances taste, like chives improve the fiery flavors of pepper. Moreover, it is quite attractive compare to the monotonous one-crop planting.

A kitchen garden would always provide fresh and safe source of herbs and vegetables, fruits and flowers.  Citing Lisa Hubbard (2010), gardening is one-third science, one-third art and one-third Peace Corps. It is not just pure brawn but also understanding the basic, as this article hope to impart and build confidence to dive deeper in the wonderful world of growing plants.  

The next gardening article would be about herb garden as a continuance to kitchen garden. If you have comments, questions, reactions, suggestions and correction please feel free to post down below. And do not forget to follow. Thank you.

As always enjoy growing and nurturing green things!

References

1. Kinkead, E.B., Sehbai, D.S. & Tunney. C.J, (Eds.). (1972) Modern Century Illustrated Encyclopedia.(Vols 9).  Austialia: McGraw-Hill far Eastern Publishers.

2. Bartley, J. (n.d.). Who says a kitchen garden can’t be beautiful? [Blog Post]. Retrieved from http://www.finegardening.com/who-says-kitchen-garden-cant-be-beautiful

3. Brenner, D. (2010, June 29). Connecticut Kitchen Garden. [Blog Post]. Retrieved from http://www.countryliving.com/gardening/garden-tours/g840/connecticut-kitchen-garden-0809/?

Essential Garden Tools Part 2

Basic Gardening Tools

Even for a small garden there are 5 essential gardening tools

1. GLOVES

2. HAND TROWEL

3. WEEDER or HORI-HORI TROWEL

4. PRUNER and SCISSOR

5. WATER CAN and SPRAYER  

Soil Additives for the Garden

It use to be gardening is a very simple, easy and relaxing endeavor may it be for pleasure of for profit. Now a days, it is growing more complicated and complex not by the volume of new data and variety of floras but confusing gardening terms and products, which gardeners tend to use in varying ways. As a novice gardener it would be taxing and uninspiring as most of the confusing terms are encountered early step of gardening, especially in preparing the soil in a garden.

Soil is the foundation of any garden and farm and having a good soil in a garden, if not perfect, needs some preparation.  To do that, most employ the old school and modest solution of simply adding some organic matters, like finished compost. Other would take a modern approach which would be incorporating various soil additives.

Gardening Terms of Different Soil Additives

Zeolite

Zeolite is a very porous mineral used in industry as a filtering agent for water, as a stockfeed supplement and horticulture, as a soil additive. Due to its porous nature, each particle has a large surgace area , enabling ‘cation wxchange.’ This means that it can hold and exchange nutrients require by plants, making nutrients readily available.

Sponglite

Sponglite, silicon dioxide, is an ancient, fossilized sea sponges. It is used in agriculture, to capture industrial spilled liquids, in cat litter, fire retardant products, and thermal insulation. It is comprised of almost 99% silica. Silica plays an important role on strengthening cell structure in plants, making them less susceptible to pest and disease attack. It also aids in healthy flower and fruit production.  Lightweight and extremely porous, it has a natural ability to hold water. The silica-based strong sponge structure make it hard to break sown, thus it is ideal in additive in potting and garden soil. The down side, its dust particle is abrasive similar to asbestos, precaution should be taken.

Gypsum

Gypsum, is also known as hydrated calcium sulfate- a pH neutral, occurs as a saline evaporate mineral from ancient watercourses, like limestone. It is a major industrial mineral used in products from paper to paint, and also as a food additive. In the garden, it is used as clay breaker, helping to improve the soil structure by alleviating compaction that would   increase the air and water infiltration and plant roots penetration through the soil. However, clay soil that need improving need to be tested as not all clay soil will respond to gypsum.  

Bentonite

Bentonite is a kind of clay formed from decomposed volcanic ash minerals like montmorillonite and beidellite. It has many industrial uses from sinking oil wells to dam lining to cat litter. In the garden, it is used for it water retention ability. It is useful in binding soil particles to create a crumb structure.

Perlite

Perlite is a volcanic glass that is heated to 1,600 degrees Fahrenheit. It has many industrial applications from masonry construction, cement and gypsum plasters and loose fill insulation. It is also use in pharmaceuticals and pool water filtration and as an abrasive agent in polishes, cleansers and soaps. In the garden, this lightweight material is used to it water retention quality as it comprised of tiny air compartments on the exterior of the particle and not inside. It is more porous ad tends to allow better aeration and drainage quality, suitable for plants that thrive in well-draining soil. It has a large surface area, thus it is suitable for plants that require level of high humidity. It is also use to foster stronger root formation in rooting cuttings propagation. The down side, it may cause fluoride burn, which appears as brown tips on houseplants.   

Vermiculite

Vermiculite is a hydrated laminar minerals, also called as aluminum-iron magnesium silicates. It is processed with massive heat that expands it into accordion shapped pellets composed of multiple layers of thin plates. It will not rot, deteriate or mold andis endurable, odorless, non-toxic and sterile. It has becoming more widely accepted alternative for asbestos as insulation, but it seems its dust particles is also as dangerous to respiratory health. In gardening, this very lightweight material is mix with soil to improve structure, as it increases water and nutrient retention and aeration. it has superior water retention, but less aerating ability compare to perlite, hence is it an amendable choice for water-loving plants.

Dolomite

Dolomite, otherwise known as calcium magnesium carbonate (calmag), occurs as a type if limestone. It is widely used in industry as a construction aggregate, cement manufacture and metallurgical flux. In agriculture and horticulture, it supply calcium and magnesium and will increase alkalinity of soil. pH testing is recommended to ascertain the correct amount of liming, it may cause nutrient deficiencies to plant when added to already alkaline soils.    

These are just few of different soil additives that initial comes up when talking about starting a garden and improving soil structure.  This is far from endorsing any of these soil additives or products.  Proper ratio and application have been omitted to discourage just random application. The goal is to initially encourage awareness and stimulate critical thinking before utilizing or not of such products. These soil additives commercially manufacture have some wonderful claims from ability of aeration, retain water, nutrients and mineral that is beneficial as a food source for microbes. Bolstering maximum efficiency and convenience in gardening, but keep in mind most of these are minerals and needed to be mined thus are non-renewable. Others have been manufactured and have disquieting precautionary measure. So, before jumping the promise of convenience, look into the long-term benefits not only for just a garden but the whole-wider environment.  The old-school and simpler solution of adding organic matter, like compost and mulch, may not provide the instant gratification of a robust garden, but it is a much safer and  enduring solution in improving soil structure.

Is this gardening tips interesting? If you want to know more about ratio of application of different soil additives post your questions and inquiries in the comment section below, and do not forget to follow. If you find this article lacking, please share why and do post reactions, suggestions and corrections. And maybe follow to somehow help this blog post better content. Thank you!

As always keep it simple and enjoy your garden!

Reference

Kinkead, E.B., Sehbai, D.S. & Tunney. C.J, (Eds.). (1972) Modern Century Illustrated Encyclopedia.(Vols 9).  Austialia: McGraw-Hill far Eastern Publishers.

Simple Way to Compost

In most gardens, soil is the foundation. A great garden soil is a healthy one where it is full of life meant it is humus-rich that have an active symbiotic relationship with small animals, worms, insects, and soil bacteria and fungi. The macro and microbial activities create and provides a slow release of nutrients to growing plants. A healthy soil is not only having a substantially water-holding capacity to conserve moisture, but also have good drainage and aeration.

There are many ways to improve the overall structure of soil. One could artificially increase nutrients in the soil by adding chemical fertilizer, but it’s an add-on cost and in the long-term could cause harm to the environment. Another way by improving water-holding capacity through mulching or using dried leaves or coconut husks, these increase moisture and suppress weeds.  A safer and cheaper option yet a high in carbon materials could cause soil microorganisms to use up extra nitrogen to digest it and deprive plants the much needed nutrient.  However, there is the cheapest and most versatile soil additive that every gardener should be using that is called finished compost, also referred as compost.

Compost and Finished Compost

Compost is a pile of organic matter in an aerobic process of decomposing through the work of microorganisms, soil fauna, enzymes and fungi into humus. While finished compost is basically the end-product of composting. It is a form of humus, a decomposed organic matters and pretty looks, feels and smells like rich black earth or soil. And good quality compost helps build that garden’s foundation by giving the soil the humus.

Versatile and Sustainable

Finished compost is a versatile soil additive that improves soil structure as it binds with soil particles into porous granules which allow air and water to move through the soil.  It actively retains moisture, as rich in organic matter or humus, as it holds up to 90 percent of its weight in water, and able to absorb and store nutrients. Since it is stabilized and cured it does not take the much needed nitrogen from the soil, a great soil conditioner. Most importantly, finished compost is a natural fertilizer, as organic matter is a source of food for microorganisms that convert soil nutrients unto a form, a balanced and full spectrum of plants nutrients, which plants absorb more efficiently. These nutrients are gradually release, as plants need them, over a period of months or years. The microorganisms, enzymes, vitamins and natural antibiotic that are present in the compost could help prevent soil pathogens from harming plants.

Environmental Friendly

Composting is the ecological alternative of burning or burying organic waste. It is a recycled and reused organic waste into fertilizer and soil additive. It is a chemical free way to nourish plant and stimulate their defense system and extra strength to grow fast and stay healthy.

Basically Free

Composting is the least costly if you make your own compost is basically free. All you need is space, brown and green organic waste, a little water and time. And let Mother Nature do the rest. But one can hasten the process by providing the best possible environment for the microorganism doing the decomposition by a simple manual labor, no need of special bins, special thermometer, aerator or starter.

Making your own Compost

This is a small scale composting just to show the basic ideas and steps I making your own compost. Here goes.

1. Preparation of containers or area. Using a 13-foot length of 2x4x36-inch welded medium gauge wire fence, tie the ends together to form a hoop with 3-4 feet in diameter. Crisscross branches on the bottom for aeration.  Or just secure an area large enough to make a 4 feet in diameter by 4 feet in height pile.

2. Piling up the compost as high as 3-4 feet. To have an active compost pile, a certain ratio of carbon-rich (brown) to nitrogen-rich (green) organic waste material should be observed and maintained; recommendation varies from 30:1, 25:1 to 20:1. To simplify use about 3 times more “brown” than “green” materials or 3:1 ratio and in alternate layer. That would provide ideal environment for live microorganisms, bacteria and fungi to grow and reproduce feeding in the nitrogen and carbon that is naturally present in organic matters. Please see picture box below for the list of brown and green organic materials.

An excess of brown and not enough green materials, would make a pile years to decompose as there is not enough protein for microbes. While an excess of green and not enough brown, a pile would also decompose slowly, be soggy and smelly, as there is not enough food for the microbes to eat.

All organic matter breaks down eventually, slowly and gradually transforms waste into compost. However, in smaller pieces and more homogenized waste matter could hasten composting. Once accumulate enough organic waste and the desired height of the pile had been reached, stop adding and let it decompose.

3. Composting. Let it sit, in a couple of days, steam will rise, and heat indicates microbial activity from aerobic bacteria decompose the waste materials. The temperature determines what types of microbes are active.   

Bacteria in the Compost

- Psychrophiles - As low as 28 degrees Fahrenheit

As they begin to digest some of the carbon-rich materials, they give off heat, which causes the temperature in the pile to rise.

- Mesophilic bacteria - 60 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit

They are responsible for the majority of the decomposition work. If the mesophiles have enough carbon, nitrogen, air, and water, they work so hard that they raise the temperature in the pile.

- Thermophilic bacteria - about 100 degrees Fahrenheit

It is these bacteria that can raise the temperature high enough to sterilize the compost and kill disease-causing organisms and weed seeds. Three to five days of 155 degrees Fahrenheit is enough for the thermophiles to do their best work.

                

4. Turning the compost pile every 3- 5 or 7 days, while big piles are turned monthly or when the interior temperature dips below about 110 degrees Fahrenheit. The purpose of turning is to increase oxygen flow for aerobic bacteria (bacteria that needs oxygen) to stimulate chemical process and decay. And to blend undecomposed materials into the center pile to ensure decomposition occurs evenly throughout the pile. Turning speeds the composting process.

     Turn the compost pile by breaking the pile, spread it all out. Check if it is moist, if its dry spray with water, preferably unchlorinated. Moisture is very important for composting process, but too much will drown the microorganism and too little will dehydrate them. Rule of green thumb; keep the pile moist as a well-wrung sponge.

Then pile it back up and mixing it together, and it will start to break down and heat up again, as long as there is still undecomposed material.

5. Composting...is it done yet? More or less, compost pile would stop breaking down in a month to 5 weeks. For big piles the active break down phase takes 6-10 months. Then, no matter how much it is turned, when the pile’s temperature remains constant, steam stop rising, and mushrooms are popping the compost pile is probably ready for curing.

6. Curing. Let the compost pile sit for another month to which the compost is allowed to stabilize. This would allow fungi to continue decomposition process and eliminate phytotoxic substances. And for bigger piles that would be an additional 6-8 months. When the compost pile looks, feels and smells like a dark brown or black rich earthy soil then it is ready for gardening.

7. Screening/Straining the finished compost is optional; it is to removes large objects. This step could be forgone if smaller pieces and more homogenized organic matter had been added to the pile. A screened quality would be best when used in seed germination, growing seedlings and planting root crops.

Composting is easy and environmentally sustainable. Most gardeners would recommend a 2 to 4- inch layer of compost around plants or over the area and till the compost into the soil as deep as 6 to 8 inches. If you cannot make it on your own make sure to buy and use those that don’t incorporate chemical treated materials.

Unfortunately, as this point the post is getting lengthy, thus the other soil additives will be discuss on the next gardening tip blog post. I hope you do not mind regards to the changes, please feel free let me know what you think.

I hope this article provided some additional knowledge and ideas that could help in making your own compost, soil mix and starting a garden. If you like this article, please let me know, leave a comment below and do not forget to follow. If you don’t, I still would like to hear what you think and please post reactions and corrections that could help improve this article or this blog in general. Thank you.

As always enjoy gardening and Mother Nature!

Reference

Praxxus55712. (2012, March 18). How to make GREAT compost fast. [Video File]. Retrieved from https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wmVNXY-fmko

Making Better Garden Soil

Do you fancy owning and running a farm in the near future when resources are available? Or do you want to try growing your own food and have peace of mind of having an organic and safe food source? Or just want to enjoy creating beautiful ambiance? Building and creating a garden would be an ideal way to assess oneself.

Garden is a plot of land for growing flowers, vegetables, fruits, or herbs for pleasure or profit. In a way, gardening is different from farming in scale and reasons. A garden may be as small as a window box, few pots or as grand as a public park. Like farming, gardening is both a science and an art [1]. From beginner to advance gardeners, everyone plan and tend their garden with final result in mind.

For me, as a novice gardener, herb garden for cooking purpose in pots would be ideal to start. Most herbs are hardy type and use frequently in cooking thus that would provide a reminder to tend and avoid killing starter plants. Hopefully, from a culinary herb garden, it would develop into a vegetable garden, and then grow to a beautiful flower garden, a symbiosis.

Building a Garden Starts with a Solid Soil Foundation

In building a garden start with the foundation: having a great soil. Soil is an important factor to consider for gardeners. Some plants grow best in rich loamy soils, others thrive in loose sandy soils or in clays, and few plants like Tillandsia genus survive with none at all [2].

  

Soil by definition is the top layer of the earth and consists of two layers. The upper fertile topsoil where most shallow rooted plants grow. And the lower less fertile subsoil, supports deep-rooted plants and trees. There are different kind of soil, according to the particle present, it is categorize as either sandy, clay, or loam soils.

Kind of Soil 

• Sandy soils, also called light soils, are made up of large rock particles and smaller rock particles, respectively. There are spaces in between particles, as a result, sandy is loose and does not hold water well and drain quickly. Nutrients tend to drain away with water before plants have a chance to absorb them.

• Loam or medium soils, are mixture of sand and clay, is the best soil for growing plants because it holds the right amount of water.

• Clay or heavy soils, are made up of small and flat particles that cling together. It is solid and does not allow water to penetrate easily. It drain slowly and sticky when wet, but becomes hard and cloddy when dried out [3].

Steps in Identifying Soil

There is a very simple soil test to determine what kind of soil in your potential garden. Repeat this test with several different soil samples from your lawn and garden.

1. Fill a 1 liter jar about one-third full with topsoil and add water until the jar is almost full.

2. Screw on the lid and shake the mixture vigorously, until all the clumps of soil have dissolved.

3. Now set the jar down and see as the larger particles begin to settle to the bottom.

4. In 1-2 minutes the sand portion of the soil will have settled to the bottom of the jar. Mark the level of sand on the side of the jar.

5. Leave the jar undisturbed for several hours. The finer silt particles will gradually settle onto the sand. Layers are slightly different colors, indicating various types of particles.

6. Leave the jar overnight. The next layer above the silt will be clay. Mark the thickness of that layer. On top of the clay will be a thin layer of organic matter. Some of this organic matter may still be floating in the water. In fact, the jar should be murky and full of floating organic sediments. If not, you probably need to add organic matter to improve the soil's fertility and structure [4].

Improving Garden Soil Structure

Any soil can be improved into a great garden soil based on the plants and purpose. Plants will be more productive having the right type, and healthy soil. Here are soil and compost ratio to improve certain kind of soil to a more suitable garden soil. 

• Sandy - topsoil 1/2, compost 1/2
• Loam - topsoil 5/6, compost 1/6
• Clay - topsoil 2/3, compost 1/3 

The kind of topsoil I am looking for a culinary garden would be a mix of loamy soil to hold water and good amount of humus, also referred as finished compost, which provides nutrients to the plants. In this case, the herbs are grown in pots, so the garden soil needs additional sand for drainage and some wetting agents like ground coconut husk/coconut coir, perlite and vermiculite. These additives create a different kind of gardening soil ideal for growing plants in pots, commonly referred as potting mix. Potting soils are made much courser to encourage better water flow and drainage while retaining soil moisture. 

Making Potting Soil

• 1/3 part of garden soil                        
• 1/3 part of coconut coir/husk              
• 1/9 part of perlite,vermiculite, or pumice (soil additives)
• 1/9 part of builder sand
• 1/9 part of coarsely crushed eggshells

The next time when cooking eggs don’t throw away the eggshells. Wash, dry and crushed them for garden use. Eggshell contains calcium carbonate, nitrogen and phosphoric acid, an organic source of potential soil nutrients And also, it is a safe slug and snail repellent, coarseness of the crushed eggshell is too rough for mollusk's soft bodies [5].

Honestly, there are countless recommendation for soil content ratio, garden mix ratio and potting mix ratio. Please feel free to share your own soil content ratio, general area you are from, the kind of garden and plants you tend.

The next gardening blog  would be about on how to make compost and the different kinds of gardening soil additives.

For the next blog would be all about plants, featuring an easy to grow herb, my favorite, spearmint.

As always enjoy gardening!

References

1. Kinkead, E.B., Sehbai, D.S. & Tunney, C.J. (Eds.). (1972). Modern Century Illustrated Encyclopedia (Vols.9). Australia: McGraw-hill Far Eastern Publishers.

2. About Rainforest Flora. (n.d.). Aeranthos Tillandsia Species [Post]. Retrieve from http://www.rainforestflora.com/store/tillandsia/A10030/aeranthos/

3. Barrington, K. (n.d.). Difference Between Garden Soil and Top Soil [Blog post].    Retrieved from http://homeguides.sfgate.com/difference-between-garden-soil-top-soil-31708.html

4. Laliberte, K. (n.d.). Building Healthy Soil [Blog Post]. Retrieved from https://www.gardeners.com/how-to/building-healthy-soil/5060.html

5. Chisholm, H. (Ed.). (1911). "Molluscoida". Encyclopædia Britannica. 18 (11th ed.). London: Cambridge University Press.